Þorláksmessa Festivities
Þorláksmessa, the Feast of St. Þorlákur, falls on December 23 and functions as Iceland's true Christmas Eve in terms of public atmosphere and activity. Since Icelanders officially begin Christmas at 6pm on the 24th, the 23rd becomes the final frantic evening of preparation: shops stay open late, central Reykjavík fills with people in their best winter coats buying last gifts and meeting friends, and families traditionally eat fermented skate, a strongly ammonia-scented dish that is simultaneously a beloved tradition and something a significant portion of Icelanders find genuinely challenging. The day honours Þorlákur Þórhallsson, Bishop of Skálholt from 1178 to 1193, recognised as patron saint of Iceland by the Althing in 1198 and canonised by the Pope in 1984.
Iceland's Unofficial Christmas Eve, Celebrated with Fermented Skate and a Medieval Patron Saint
Þorlákur Þórhallsson was Bishop of Skálholt, one of Iceland's two medieval episcopal seats, from 1178 until his death on December 23, 1193. He was known for defending the rights of ordinary people and the church against powerful secular lords, and was recognised as a saint by the Icelandic Althing just five years after his death in 1198, making him one of very few saints recognised by a parliament rather than the papacy. He remained Iceland's unofficial patron saint through the Reformation and the country's conversion to Lutheranism, and was formally canonised by Pope John Paul II in 1984, nearly 800 years after his death. His feast day on December 23 has been observed continuously since the medieval period, outlasting the religious transformations the country went through, and today it functions as one of the most lively and atmospheric days of the Icelandic calendar.
The tradition of eating fermented skate on Þorláksmessa has roots in the Catholic practice of fasting before Christmas, when eating meat was prohibited and fish was the acceptable alternative. Skate was a practical choice in coastal communities, particularly in the Westfjords and Breiðafjörður where the fish was caught in autumn, and fermenting it extended its shelf life. Over time it became ritualised, and today it is the single most culturally distinctive food tradition in Iceland. The fermentation process produces a strong ammonia scent that many describe as challenging, and households sometimes boil skate outdoors or in their garages to manage the smell. Restaurants serving skate on the 23rd are easy to identify: follow the smell. Fermented skate is typically served with boiled potatoes, rye bread, and butter, often accompanied by brennivín, the Icelandic aquavit.
In Reykjavík, Þorláksmessa has evolved into one of the most energetic evenings of the year on the streets of the city centre. Shops remain open until midnight, and Laugavegur and the surrounding streets fill with a mix of last-minute shoppers and people simply enjoying the atmosphere. Families traditionally decorate the Christmas tree on this evening, marking it as the true start of the holiday. For visitors in Iceland in late December, the evening of the 23rd in central Reykjavík offers an authentic and unscripted window into how Icelanders actually celebrate Christmas, distinct from the more tourist-oriented Christmas market events earlier in the month.
